La cuisine réunionnaise

This entry is all about food and it is dedicated to my parents ;) I guess it's about time I wrote about food here. I am after all a food lover and food plays an important role in most cultures. If it doesn't, then at least the lack of it does, I guess. With the latter I might be referring to a nordic country that starts with a capital F but now it's time to concentrate on "la cuisine créole".

On Reunion island you can see three kinds of traditions in the kitchen: food from France, local créole dishes and a mixture of both. The créole way of cooking is a mixture of Indian, African, Chinese etc. But it has been here for so long that I guess we can just call it a tradition of its own. There are regional and religious differences (no pork for muslims and no beef for hindus etc.) But I just want to give you a simplified and clear picture ;) So this is as simple and as clear as I am able to make it.

One of the first strange words I learned here was "bred". It is pronounced the same way as "bread" but with a French accent, obviously. It means all kinds of mostly green vegetable leaves and flowers that can be used for cooking. Every bred has its own flavour and should be cooked with certain spices. It sounds very simple but it is actually very good and it is part of every typical dish here. It can be replaced by chick peas or beans as well.

Every dish consists of four differents things; breds, rice, some kind of meat and chilli. The rice is the Chinese kind os sticky white rice, the meat can be pork, beef, chicken or fish in basically any form. The chilli part was a bit weird for me in the beginning because everytime you buy take-away food they will ask you "Du piment? Quel piment?" and I didn't understand how chilli could be anything other than chilli. Well, it means that it is always chopped chilli, either red or green, and it is then mixed with tomato, mango or pretty much anything. So basically piment just means a spicy sauce on top of your meal.

Meat, clearly my personal favourite. A part of almost any dish, it is delicious here. I don't usually like food that is too spicy because I feel like it takes part of the whole tasting pleasure away- haha. However, one of the typical dishes here is made with very spicy sausages and I actually like it a lot.
As long as there is a satisfying amount of rice accompanying it I am happy.
The fish is fantastic here as well. I cannot name any unfortunately but it is go-ood. Chicken is very different here just because of the way the spice it. A typical way of preparing chicken here is mixing it with a sort of vanilla sauce. Okay, it might sound bizarre, but it is not a sweet white vanilla sauce - of course not. The chicken is cooked in some sort of oily spiced sauce and then there are vanilla sticks added in the sauce. Potatoes are sometimes used to accompany the meat and also fruits like mango and green papaya (papaya that is not ripe yet) are used. - I LIIIKE!!!

The chilli sauce aka piment  which is usually tomato with chilli but when they have it, I always choose the chilli sauce mixed with mashed chick peas I think. It reminds me a bit of hoummous but it is fresh and spicy. Now you mix all of these four elements and voilà, bon appétit. :)

When French people talk about bonbons they are referring to sweets. Réunion people say bonbon when they talk about little cookies and such. Typical bonbons from here are crusty, baked things that I can't describe so I'll just add a photo of those as well. You can get them in different flavours but the main ingredient is honey and flour. Coconut is used in many many things and it is also a main flavour or topping on these bonbons.

Probably the most famous snacks are samoussas. Samoussa looks like a spring roll but it's a triangle

and it can be filled with meat, curry flavoured potatoes or French cheese.

I am not sure if samoussa really is from Reunion island originally as I also saw it everywhere on Mauritius, but people from here say it is local. Let's believe them. There are also other similar things that are all baked or fried in oil and can be filled

 with lots of things. They are clearly of Asian origin but I don't know more. Good and cheap - that's for sure.

What about all the French things that people eat here then? Well, I don't know what to call them in English so I'll just write their French names.

Baguettes, croissants, pain au chocolat and all the most famous    French bakery products that you can imagine - they're all here and everyone eats them just like in Europe. Also, don't forget about the coffee ;) Another thing is wine, cheese and canned food. Baguettes are very cheap and in the mornings every other person you see in the streets is carrying a baguette or two. Other than this, all the little pies and tartlets that you can find in France and in Belgium. They're all here.

 

Le rhum arrangé

No, I am not finished yet because a very important part of the traditional cuisine or at least a part of this island, is le rhum arrangé aka flavoured rum!!!

It is a local alcoholic beverage that you all know but the difference is that here flavouring rum is almost an art.


People buy plain white rum at the supermarket or wherever and then there are numerous possibilities to make your own flavours. Vanilla is used for this as well and other typical flavours are litchi, coconut, cinnamon, orange, ginger, mint and even our famous piment aka chilli. And these are only a few because rum can be spiced and flavoured with almost anything. You can find ready made packages in the shops where you have instructions for making it, because not every spice or fruit has to stay in the bottles for as long. Vanilla for example has to mature for about four months which is quite the usual period of time one has to wait, but apparently like with good wine - the longer you wait the better it gets. I personally haven't tried any here on Reunion island but the same tradition exists on Mauritius so there I had the chance to try about ten different kinds of flavours. They were all very good except the chilli one, I guess chilli can be mixed with lots of things
 and I like it even in dark chocolate but with rum - no thank you.

On va manger au snack?

When I wrote that we go and have take-away food, it means that we go to a snack. It can be part of a small restaurant or then they really just have take-away food but whatever the case, it is always really good well-prepared meals and local. As most of the things are really expensive here, also in the supermarkets, I can happily inform that eating at these snacks is very cheap. Almost every meal is about 5 euros, sometimes 8 if you go to a fancier snack. The meals are very big though plus it is definitely good for you - no junk food :)

The snack places might look strange as they are often shabby little houses but that's what they always look like. The most famous style is painted in the colours of the local beer Bourbon. You can see places like this everywhere. 

Well, I am getting very hungry writing this so I'd better finish this now. Hopefully I'll be able to find a cookbook that has clearly explained recipies so that I will be able to try and cook some of these dishes when I am back in Finland, or wherever...

xxx Ellen






Congratulations, Heleme.





   I feel like I have only good news to share with you people!

Just after writing my last entry wondering why I still haven't tried scuba diving and actually knowing that money has always been the only reason why I haven't done it. Well. Yesterday I finally did it.

We went to interview a terribly lucky group of "problem" school kids (aged 13-14) who spent their morning scuba diving - part of the school principal's masterplan. The whole idea is that these kids with problems at school can spend half of their holidays at school getting more personal help and different kinds of assignments and at the end of this successful week they will all do something special together as a way to thank and encourage them to do well at school. This time it was scuba diving and even we (journalist I work with and I) got to join, for free - INSANE! I felt like I had to hide my excitement a bit as my "boss" was so calm and cool about it... I on the other hand, just wanted to jump around because I was so happy :)

The beginning of the trip was mostly just listening to our guides (good-looking French scuba diver men ;) I liiiiiiike) and after the trip we did the interviews.

On the boat we saw lots of spinner dolphins (amazing) and the diving itself, well, it is again something that I can't describe here. Underwater life <3 So beautiful. We were under the water for about 20 minutes but it felt way too short.  When we had to come out I really would've just preferred staying under the water for the rest of the day.

I am also happy to inform that my ears did quite well. Those who don't know, I've always had problems with my ears when I'm flying but there's no real medical condition I have so it was safe to go and try. Anyhow, I was a bit scared because I thought it would've been horrible to go under just to realise that I'm not able to do scuba diving. Following the instructions and occasionally doing "the Valsalva maneuver": you close your mouth, pinch your nostrils closed and gently blow through your nose I was able to equalise and my ears didn't hurt anymore.  The breathing itself was very easy but balancing yourself with the heavy tank on your back was a little bit trickier. At the end of the trip we were all very happy and I felt really overwhelmed. Even we got our certificates of our first-ever scuba dive.

Only three weeks left and then Outi will be here - exciting but also sad as it means I only have 3 more weeks at work.

Trying to be a bit more creative and study this weekend. Wish me luck ;)

xxx E

Magic

                               It finally happened. My dream came true.

 I got to dive and swim with dolphins. With wild bottlenose dolphins. My long lost dolphin lover soul is finally at peace. I am unable to describe this feeling. I have dreamed of this for as long as I can remember and I always thought it would always just remain that. A dream.

However, it did happen and this was one of the most magical experiences ever. I know this might sound strange for people who don't share my passion for dolphins and the ocean in general but for me this was something I will never forget. 

Underwater life is something so special for me that I can only wonder why I still haven't tried scuba diving. I will get there one day. Soon. I promise. I am after all a wannabe marine biologist and Jacques Cousteau, if he was still alive, would definitely be on the top of my People I have to meet -list

So. I spent one week in Mauritius, which was a very positive surprise by the way! Not that I ever thought Mauritius wouldn't be beautiful but for me it's always been this honeymoon destination or just for rich people. It turned out to be everything but that in fact. I went alone, but because I stayed with some wonderful people I contacted through Couchsurfing (http://www.couchsurfing.com/) who've lived there for years, I really got to see a lot of real life and also got to avoid the touristy areas and met some locals.

Mauritius is surprisingly different to Reunion island because it is, of course, more touristic as a destination so you can see that certain areas (hotels) really have been built for that specific reason but it's also the nature that is quite different. Mauritius is quite flat except for a few mountain-looking higher areas :D It is also more paradise-like because they have more beaches with white white sand and clear blue water - Reunion Island is wilder and rougher.

If I thought (which i did) that Reunion Island seemed shabby in some places, it is super modern compared to lots of parts of Mauritius. Unfortunately I was a lazy tourist when seeing all that so I can't offer you any pictures of the old houses and dirty streets.

The same cohabitation of different religions is in its full blossom in Mauritius and the big difference to Reunion, where people only speak Créole/French (or both) in Mauritius people are all bilingual (English and French) and most speak Créole as well and some people even speak Hindi. Lots of languages mixed together as some of the locals put it. You can hear conversations where all of the latter four languages are spoken.

The French was also a little bit different to Reunion's French and I didn't always understand them as I refused to speak English and sticked to French even if others switched to English. Go Ellen! All in all an amazing place and like Reunion, there is a lot to be seen and I only saw a tiny bit of it. Beaaautiful places, interesting little towns and busier towns and most importantly the loveliest experience ever, on the dolphin tour. It was a boat that took us (about 10 people) to this area about 15 min away from the shore, where the dolphins always come in the mornings, and we were only allowed two at a time in the water.

We also got good instructions and we were told that everything should be done respecting the dolphins. This sounds normal, of course, but one never knows with all these things people do to attract tourists around the world, so I was more than glad to hear them being serious about it all. We were told there were bottlenose (like Flipper) and spinner dolphins in that area but we only saw bottlenose dolphins.

My friend and I were very lucky to be surrounded by two very  curious dolphins for a long time and despite our bad photographer who could've taken a few really good photos, we were able to enjoy them from really close as they kept on diving around us.

 I had a disposable underwater camera and I hope at least a few photos will be good. Until I get them here I've added a few pictures I found on the internet to show you what it all looked like. Except for the underwater ones, all of the pictures here taken by me though. (below: Us being silly)              

                                           

               To sum up: Mauritius was fantastic and dreams do come true.

                                                            xx E

Mountains and the sea.

Reunion Island reminds me a lot of Hawaii. No, I have never been to Hawaii but I confess that during my teenager years I pretty much spent all my spare time surfing on the internet and browsing through books and magazines to read about different countries. I also had these notebooks with some of my closest friends where we would always write a letter and then glue beautiful pictures of paradise beaches or other interesting-looking places in the notebook. Therefore I dare to say I know what Hawaii's nature is like and I find it very similar to Reunion Island's nature. First of all; everything is unbelievably GREEN and then the reason why I love it most of all is the fact that wherever you are you can always see mountains and the sea. And you people who know me know that this is the most perfect combination for me. I really love waterfalls and rainforests as well but the ocean is just my love number one. Even though the shores close to St Leu are not even close to being able to compete with Hawaii's pipeline (a world famous surfing spot known for its huge waves) Reunion Island has REALLY good spots for surfing, so yes, even this can be linked to Hawaii in my opinion. Also the volcanic activity on this island is a thing that Hawaii is famous for as well... so quite a few things that these two places have in common I'd say. But enough about Hawaii now, I want to tell you guys a bit of my trips in the streets of St Denis and the surroundings.
Strolling around St Denis is so lovely. Even in the centre you see the lush green mountains and blue water from almost every corner. I guess this also shows how small this island is.I love all the cosy restaurants and bakeries and the smell of the hot air, although it has been a little bit too hot lately I have to say... Even the locals are complaining and the newspapers have been writing about the exceptionally hot weather as well. Climate change really is showing its many faces around the world.

On my way from my place to work I get to see so much real everyday life. I barely see any white people if I may say so... Parents taking their kids to school, others going to work, some are waiting at a bus stop and some are getting their freshly baked morning croissants or Samoussas, similar to spring rolls but more to my taste ;)
One could say that everyday life here is relatively similar to life in Finland but on the other hand, the setting and people's attitudes are very different. It feels like nobody's in a rush and everyone's got time to talk to their friends or other people that are passing by either in the streets or at the bakery. Some days on my way to work I hear a car honk and stop next to me during green lights ;) and it's someone from the office telling me to hop in the car, always a nice surprise.
At the checkout counters in the supermarkets people are also extremely slow and paying with cheques is still very fashionable - just like in metropolitan France. Paying with your card is quite slow as well but on the other hand they also have lots of self service counters which we don't have in Finland or at least I have never seen one.
When I go to Carrefour I feel like I'm in France or Belgium because everything is always written both in Dutch and in French and of course lots of the products are the same too.

Another thing that I find extremely cute and impressive is the stray dogs, and there are A LOT of them here. They are so used to the traffic and the french way of driving that it is not unusual to see a dog cross the street at a zebra crossing - just like people. There are also lots of cats here but I haven't seen them do any special tricks yet.

That's it for now folks, hope you're all having fun wherever you are.

x E

Somewhere over the rainbow

Reunion Island is a multicultural society composed of people originally from France, Mozambique, India, China, Madagascar, and the Comores.

Islanders use their ethnic origins to define themselves as Cafres (African ancestry) Z'oreilles (born in mainland France), malabars or Tamouls (from Tamil Nadu southern India), Z'arabes (from Gujarat in northern India), Chinois (from China), Malgaches (from Madagascar), Comores (from Comores), Petits blancs (poor rural whites living in the highlands), or Creoles blancs (white landowners): (http://www.everyculture.com/No-Sa/Reunion-Island.html)


So I've got a challenge for you people - try to imagine the following;

A place where there are Roman Catholics, Christians, hindus and muslims.

A place where the ethnic groups consist of Créole, French, African, Malagasy, Chinese, Pakistani and Indian; all living together on a tiny island and yet the population is only about 800 000 inhabitants...

Sound interesting? Just a tad maybe?

Well this is the case on Reunion Island and even though there is a tendency for all of these ethnic groups to have their own circles, racism is practically nonexistent on this island.

A mixture of all the possible skin colours are to be found here. You can even meet a person who is both Catholic and Hindu – clearly not your everyday religious people.

Yesterday we were driving from the other part of St Denis into the city and on our way we drove past a Hindu temple, at about 12 o' clock the Islamic call to prayer from the near-by Mosque reached our ears;time for Friday prayers. A little later we walked past the Roman Catholic cathedral in the centre - impressive.

All of the inhabitants who practise their own religions on Réunion do have a big thing in common that they have accepted but which Metropolitan France hasn't.
-> Law before religion.

To sum up this basically means that people are more free to go to school, work etc dressed up pretty much the way they want to. If a certain religion-related habit is illegal people will accept it and not fight against it.
Also "The great burka debate" apparently never caused bigger problems on this island at all and even president Nicolas Sarkozy on a visit to St Denis (where I live) was overwhelmed of this cohabitation of religions on this island wondering why it is not possible in metropolitan France.

Well all of the above was a lot of things my 'boss' told me the other day and not so much my own experiences... I have to say though that this place truly is
a MELTING POT as they say.


peace,

E

I wish I had a mango tree in my backyard.

Being the laziest of all the lazy asses that try to write a blog when overseas, it has taken me almost 2 weeks to finally open this page and write something.

Me? -I am very fine thanks - enjoying yogurt with fresh passion fruit here as we speak. Typically my first days were a bit strange and I needed some time to get settled and get in the mood but after all the hassle I pretty quickly started realising how awesome a place this really is. The first days I was extremely tired because of speaking French all the time - not the language I am used to speaking this much. A lot of sleep, adjusting to the humidity, sun and everything in general pretty much took my first days but that's alright. I'm all super now.

The place? -I live at the university campus area which means there are a lot of students around and always someone to help you even if you don't know anyone. This area is called Sainte Clotilde which is not in the centre (St Denis) but it is packed here and there is a lot of local life to be seen. When I go for a walk I see lots of elderly men and ladies sitting in their back/front yards and a lot of little kids on their bikes. People watching seems to be these people's favourite pastime. In my room I have a little bathroom, a bed, a desk, a mini fridge and I can see palm trees and the sea from my balcony. Not bad.

My job? -It's my second week now and today I had a day off. I follow the journalist lady pretty much everywhere outside the office and as she is responsible for the education section of the newspaper, lots of our days consist of going to local schools for interviews. Last week we also stayed in a class room for a whole hour, interviewed the kids, the teacher and took some photos.
Every morning at the office starts at 9 o' clock with a meeting where everyone explains what they're working on or are going to start with. At the office I have been doing "research" on the Finnish school system and I've spent lots of time on different kinds of discussion forums and I have learned a lot myself too that I didn't know about education in Finland. The lady writes lots of her articles concentrating on France but a big part is also comparative texts where she often brings up Finland and other countries whose educational system is statistically seen very good. After I've written and translated the texts to her she sometimes also prints them and corrects my French explaining my mistakes - which I like very much. I had never expected they would actually concentrate on me this much as it is mostly very busy at the office. All the people are very nice there and the atmosphere feels very relaxed.

Other things that have happened? -I've spent a lot of time walking around taking pictures. I have been to St Denis which is a lovely town by the way and even though part of it is very old and looks like a typical tropical city, most of the shops are French so at some point you might feel like you're in a normal little town in the middle of France and after a few minutes of walking you'll realise you're nowhere near France. Also Carrefour (typical French big supermarket) is very big here and a few days ago I bought lots of fresh fruits there and oh god you might have guessed it -they were delicious!! Mangoes, pomelos, passion fruits... Yummy

This Belgian guy I got to know on my first day here knows how to get around pretty well so I suggested we'd do something today and he took me to these wonderful waterfalls (Bassin Boeuf) today and we had a great time even though it started raining at some point.

Oh one thing, this morning on our way to the waterfalls when we were waiting for our bus we noticed lots of things falling off a tree and we soon realised it was mangoes. There we were sitting in the sun, picking mangoes while waiting for our bus. <3

xxx E